dipped my toe in and treated myself to a Robo Lite. A few quick questions.
First thing I noticed is if you try to do anything else on PC when you are cutting from studio it goes in to a hissy fit and cuts all over the place. Is this just me or do you find that too?
No matter how low I put the pressure on cutting it scores the carrier mat.
Same make and weight of card, white is fine but coloured card does not cut as well and sticks to mat etc.
Lastly a question for template designers, I paid for some favour box templates as son getting married 2012 and thought I could make some for them also hoped that I might get orders for some in future. I understand clearly copy rights etc but the templates came with written note that they can only be sold made up and not as a flat pack. Is this normal? for transport/posting it makes more sense to be able to to flat pack.
Welcome to UKScrappers, I recommend you have a read of this thread, there is a lot of information you will find useful.
To answer your questions;
I did try yesterday to open a new document and carry on designing while it cut and it didn't seem to be a problem, are you using the latest version of Studio? There is a link in a sticky thread that you can download from.
Light marks on these new carrier sheets seems to be unavoidable, I've yet to discover if it's only the adhesive that is marking or the actual carrier sheet.
Coloured card can be more fibrous that white card, it depends on the quality you are using. The cheaper the card the more fibrous it will be.
If your question about favour boxes is concerning files you have bought, you should contact the person you bought them from directly, I would say from what you tell us, that they do not want people cutting and selling their boxes as flat packs. As for it being normal, it's up to the designer to say what their designs can and can't be used for.
It's the latest version of Studio I'm using and I was happily cutting and thought I would just take a peek on the internet and it then cut all over the place and finished halfway down the page so I had to shut it down to pull out the project. It may just of had a blip and it was a coincidence that I chose to look at the internet at the same time.
As regards to the scoring on the mat it may be just marking the adhesive (didn't think of that) as I cannot feel anything on the reverse side.
Muckyduckies, I have also had the robo go funny if I try to play music whilst cutting a template, but I just thought it was my old laptop that was the problem.
Ooopps nearly forgot welcome to the forum, this is a wonderful place to be.
Welcome to UKS - I hope you are enjoying your Lite!
Regarding the template(s) that you purchased I would expect any restrictions to be made clear at the time of purchase not sent with the item after you had ordered and paid which is the point you both entered into a contract.
I don't allow my designs to be sold flat packed either, and I don't know any designers that do to be honest, I have no problem with anyone cutting and decorating then selling but selling just the cut template is a no no on my part... reason I could do that myself.. There is no reason why you can't make for your wedding and send to be assembled there..
When you purchase designs from anywhere not just Craft ROBO designs but CDs Too they do not allow you to print and sell the printed sheet.. you have to make up to sell
As for selling items flat packed, this, as Tina says, is a no-no, because if you sell as flat-packed, this implies you are selling to another crafter to decorate and use. When you buy a template, the copyright stays with the designer, it does not transfer to you. You can sell a made up & decorated item, but not the template in any form.
Thank you for all your reply's regarding the templates, it's becoming clear now. I'm a bit of a PC geek and have found the studio very easy to use so will be soon creating my own designs I'm sure.
I'm still confused with regards to the scoring on my carrier sheet. I have tried to find and read all the topics on thickness of card. I have been using a 220gsm card which I thought was medium so have been using yellow cap 23 thickness which cuts lovely but still leaves marks on carrier, but reading other topics it would appear that I should use the pink cap and more pressure is it because my Lite is new and blade ultra sharp that I can use yellow cap and as it dulls will have to change things?
Sorry to be pain can I ask one more question please. What thickness do people use for making cards? I read on internet that most card makers say that 220gsm is too flimsy but I'm also getting impression that the Lites etc won't cut much more above that.
Just got a Craft robo Lite and like yourself.....having doing problems. Read in one of your replies
Are you using the latest version of Studio? What is a Sticky thread that you were advised to use and where can I access it if it works with the Lite?
Thank you for all your reply's regarding the templates, it's becoming clear now. I'm a bit of a PC geek and have found the studio very easy to use so will be soon creating my own designs I'm sure.
I'm still confused with regards to the scoring on my carrier sheet. I have tried to find and read all the topics on thickness of card. I have been using a 220gsm card which I thought was medium so have been using yellow cap 23 thickness which cuts lovely but still leaves marks on carrier, but reading other topics it would appear that I should use the pink cap and more pressure is it because my Lite is new and blade ultra sharp that I can use yellow cap and as it dulls will have to change things?
Sorry to be pain can I ask one more question please. What thickness do people use for making cards? I read on internet that most card makers say that 220gsm is too flimsy but I'm also getting impression that the Lites etc won't cut much more above that.
Don't get obsessed with marking the carrier - it's a consumable item and if you're getting a few score marks on it just count it as part of your learning process! But what you don't want to do is get deep gouges on the carrier as this may well affect the quality of your cuts and the gouges may "bump" the blade off track - which is why you get those warnings about not marking it. What you should be aiming for are settings where you just get light marks, and it can sometimes take time and patience.
Your blade should be just slightly longer than the thickness of your card - this enables the blade to cut to the correct depth. The thickness setting is a fine tune for this and puts a bit more or less force behind the cut. If you're getting marks on your card with your yellow blade cap, you'll be likely to get the same - or more so - with your red one as it allows greater blade length, which is gong to cut deeper - think about it... You can hold up your blade and cap against the edge of your card to do an "eyeball check" on thickness. You'll also find a guide on the inside of your Robo lid for which cap colour to use for different media thicknesses ( blue 0.1mm, yellow 0.2mm, red 0.3mm). There are no absolute rules, you need to work out for your machine and your brands of card what the best settings are - they'll vary from person to person; all we can give are guidelines to follow. Double cuts are often better for sllghtly thicker tougher card, and yes as your blade gets used it blunts and settings may well need changing over time, but less force on your blade will be kinder to it and your machine, so they will both last longer in the long run.
Re card making: None of the small Robos/Silhouettes are designed to take heavier weight card. I generally use 220-240gsm max for cards, but I usually include an insert which will add a little extra support. But it's not just the card weight you should think about: card can have other properties, so you should look for a card that is slightly stiffer rather than soft/floppy, and this will help you with lighter weight stuff being able to stand nicely. And obviously light weight card won't be able to support lots of mats and layers, or heavy embellishments, so use common sense too - if you are making a plain card shape and want a heavier weight, cut it with a rotary cutter or guillotine, and use your Robo with lighter card/paper for any fancy bits. The Robo/Silhouette is not the only tool in your crafting kit!
Rosemary
"The main reason people buy those machines [Craft Robos] is to cut out words and lace doily patterns for their scrapbooks."
Thank you dozyrosy for your very helpful reply, I have tried most crafts but never card making so at a complete loss as to what materials to use.
Originally Posted by craftingagain
Just got a Craft robo Lite and like yourself.....having doing problems. Read in one of your replies
Are you using the latest version of Studio? What is a Sticky thread that you were advised to use and where can I access it if it works with the Lite?
Hi craftingagain, I'm using 2.2.0 version of studio. I am not allowed to post links yet but if if you go to the Craft Robo Chat at the top there is a thread titled Studio, Inkscape and Robomaster Download Links. You will find the link in there to the Silhoutte Studio Download.
Just got a Craft robo Lite and like yourself.....having doing problems. Read in one of your replies
Are you using the latest version of Studio? What is a Sticky thread that you were advised to use and where can I access it if it works with the Lite?
A sticky thread is a thread that doesn't move down the page, all sticky threads stay at the top of the thread list so people can find them easily. They are easy enough to spot as they have the word "sticky"
If you click on the screen shot below to enlarge it, you can see what I mean.
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Originally Posted by Muckyduckies
But what you don't want to do is get deep gouges on the carrier as this may well affect the quality of your cuts and the gouges may "bump" the blade off track - which is why you get those warnings about not marking it. What you should be aiming for are settings where you just get light marks, and it can sometimes take time and patience.
You can hold up your blade and cap against the edge of your card to do an "eyeball check" on thickness. You'll also find a guide on the inside of your Robo lid for which cap colour to use for different media thicknesses ( blue 0.1mm, yellow 0.2mm, red 0.3mm). There are no absolute rules, you need to work out for your machine and your brands of card what the best settings are - they'll vary from person to person; all we can give are guidelines to follow. Double cuts are often better for sllghtly thicker tougher card, and yes as your blade gets used it blunts and settings may well need changing over time, but less force on your blade will be kinder to it and your machine, so they will both last longer in the long run. 
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